Fast fashion: Addressing postconsumer textile recycling

In the dynamic realm of sustainable fashion, postconsumer textile recycling stands out as a key strategy for mitigating waste and minimizing resource usage.

Textiles can be recycled through different processes, and each has its pros and cons. Mechanical recycling is a tried-and-true method. Central to this process is the manual shredding of fabrics to break them down into their basic fibers. Once isolated, these fibers can be reused and woven into new textile products.

This technique particularly excels with single-material fabrics, such as 100 percent cotton or wool. The consistency in fiber types enables a smoother recycling process, often yielding a quality comparable with new fabrics. A prime example is Patagonia’s ReCrafted collection, which recycles unrepairable clothing.

Mechanical recycling faces limitations when it comes to mixed fabrics, as shredding typically results in fibers that are shorter and have reduced tensile strength. Conversely, chemical recycling stands out for its versatility and ability to handle a diverse range of materials, including complex synthetics such as polyester.

Chemical recycling involves breaking textiles down into their core chemical components, which can then be transformed into new textiles or various other products. The process is adaptable and involves chemicals chosen based on the specific type of textile being recycled. One of the most impressive features of chemical recycling is its capability to rejuvenate fibers to a quality that is nearly identical to their original state, making them ideal for use in high-end product manufacturing.

A notable example is Renewcell, which has pioneered the transformation of cellulosic textile material into Circulose, a raw material for garment production. Additionally, Worn Again Technologies has made strides in chemical recycling by developing a technique to separate polyester and cellulose from mixed end-of-life fabric, further showcasing the method’s effectiveness in recycling diverse blended fabrics.

Another recycling process is hydrothermal recycling, which uses high pressure and high-temperature water to break materials down into their basic components. This method is especially useful for materials that typically are considered nonrecyclable. Circ, formerly Tyton BioSciences, is a textile recovery company harnessing this technology to efficiently separate and recover materials from blended fabrics. These recovered materials are then transformed into new fibers or plastics.

Finally, biological recycling leverages the natural process of biodegradation. In this method, microorganisms are employed to decompose biodegradable textiles, which can include natural fibers and specially designed synthetic fibers. A prominent example is a project supported by the Hong Kong Research Institute of Textiles and Apparel Ltd.

Textile recycling innovations

Alongside the growing trend of upcycling, advancements in clothing traceability—systems that allow consumers and brands to track the entire life cycle of a garment, from production to end-of-life—are reshaping consumer habits and industry standards. Clothing traceability is gaining traction and is led by innovative companies such as EON.

EON’s traceability systems provide detailed insights into a garment’s journey, materials and manufacturing processes. This transparency empowers consumers to make responsible and informed decisions about clothing purchases and encourages sustainable practices, such as upcycling and repairs.

In addition to innovations in clothing traceability, the fashion industry is witnessing remarkable advancements in circular fashion initiatives. One notable example can be found in Adidas’ Loop sneakers. These sneakers are designed for full recyclability, as they can be returned, broken down and remanufactured into new sneakers. This process highlights the possibility and effectiveness of applying circular economy principles in mainstream fashion.

The future of fashion is not just about style but also about being environmentally responsible. Innovative approaches from the fashion and textile industries as well as sustainability-savvy consumers are crucial to driving sustainable fashion forward.

This edition of Waste Watch is part of a two-part series. Read the first edition in Waste Today’s January/February issue.